When planning my trip to Ireland in May I checked the Library Catalogue to see what was available and found this :
I was quite amazed at the amount, variety and quality of ancient monuments to be found, and visited, all over Ireland.
Newgrange from the approach lane
In order of age the earliest site that I visited, and featuring also at the beginning of the first chapter ‘Ireland Before History: The Stone Age’ is Knowth which, along with its, probably better known, neighbour, Newgrange, is “one of three great burial mounds erected in the ‘sacred landscape’ of the Lower Boyne Valley in Co. Meath.” The two passage-tombs under the great tumulus were probably erected before 2500BC. Around the main mound are several recently reconstructed ‘satellite’ tombs.
Knowth Main Mound
and Satellites
One of the Passage Tombs
I didn’t have time to visit both mounds as I was travelling between Co. Kildare and Co. Fermanagh but I did manage Knowth and will definitely return to see Newgrange, especially now that I know how the system for visiting works! My Heritage Ireland Card gave me free admittance to the site.
“Please note this is a very busy site and it is important to be at the Centre early in the day to ensure a visit to the monuments, as places on the tours are limited each day. There is no direct access to either Newgrange or Knowth. All access is through the Visitor Centre and by guided tour only.”
I had arrived across country and found the approach lanes surprisingly quiet but on arrival in the crowded car park and on joining the queues at the Visitor Centre I discovered that most people and all coaches arrive via the nearby Motorway. There’s plenty to see in the Centre and then time to catch the timed minibus to Knowth where you get a very full guided tour inside and outside the tumulus.
We were able to enter the tomb and to climb to the top for a wonderful view towards Newgrange and also The Hill of Tara the ‘most historic place in all Ireland, having played an important mythical and symbolic role in the country from the Stone Age to the 19th century, including the nominal centre of the ‘High Kingship’ of Ireland.’
The Surface on the Top of Knowth
Newgrange from Knowth
It’s quite amazing that the carved stones around the base of the mound have been preserved across the centuries.
Just one example of the stone carvings!
And another
Quartz from the Wicklow Mountains and Granite from the Mountains of Mourne
I will definitely visit again and get to Newgrange and maybe also the site of the Hill Tara which seems to be very little visited.
Somewhere I’ve never been although Newgrange has been recommended to me as a mist by several of my Irish friends. I must try to get up there during one of my forthcoming visits (next one due at the end of September). Your report has certainly whetted my appetite!
Be warned! Even in May it was heaving. You need to allow plenty of time and follow the signs (not GPS, apparently). IMHO it’s definitely worth a visit.
Amazing places, I think I’ve seen Neil Oliver exploring similar sites on TV. Did this sort of construction once exist in England, now flattened by agriculture, or are they unique to Ireland?
You have reminded me that in a recent TV programme Martha Kearney visited Newgrange
http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p02msrdr
It was a very good series. I have no idea whether they were just limited to the Celtic fringe or existed over here, I’m afraid.
Try to come see us in the north too 🙂
Be patient ;-). This is just [1]. Indeed I visited Northern Ireland too. And have more on my list for future trips. Love Northern Ireland. Click the ‘Northern Ireland’ link.
Will do 😉
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